tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16556779648707747452024-03-05T15:34:57.124-08:00D Sew ClubD Sew Club – The Design Studio was founded in the year 2011 with a very simple vision – to make Sewing and Tailoring an approachable skill. Today D Sew Club not only hosts an array of classes and workshops for sewing enthusiasts of all levels but is also a hub for fashion and bespoke consultation. The Studio caters to many aspects of Garment Construction including providing Sewing and Pattern Drafting Lessons for all type of garments however simple or intricate they may be. Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1655677964870774745.post-35208095948046891032019-06-04T20:28:00.002-07:002019-09-15T17:10:19.299-07:00One size “does not” fit all <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Over the past 2 decades, the cost of production of garments has gone down drastically. With brands like H&M and Zara offering clothing for less than $5 people are not really keen on spending money to first buy fabric and then to pay tailors to sew it. One would argue about the economic prudence of getting a bespoke dress done when a mass produced product is available for a fraction of the cost.<br />
Yes it's true that one can buy clothing at very low prices at these brand outlets or even on some China based online platforms but there are many reasons why tailor made clothes are superior to the store bought ones from the perspective of quality to environmental aspects, which I will touch upon in the coming chapters. But one of the most important reasons why tailor made clothing (whether you sew it yourself or get it stitched for you) will always stand way above the ready-made clothing is the “Size”. Customized clothing is based on your measurements. Let's face it, not all of us have a perfectly proportioned body, although the garment manufacturers would love to believe so (we would love to believe that too!) They follow their standard measurement charts for different sizes. You see a small tag at the back the garment that says S M L or 6,8,10 along with the brand label? Those are the size categories the brands have followed. So your upper body might be size 6 or 8 but lower body might be 10-12 or vice e versa. Many people struggle with this measurement mismatch and alter their store or online bought clothes which explains the sudden influx of alteration specialized shops.<br />
Another way to combat the sizing issues is to work with fabrics that are stretchable in nature. Stretchable fabrics are quite forgiving when it comes to fitting and you can easily accommodate two sizes in one garment.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1655677964870774745.post-90554533474042979242019-06-03T20:57:00.001-07:002019-06-03T21:21:33.052-07:00Visualizing your Design - The very start<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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More often than not, dress making is perceived as a complicated form of art that has too many technical aspects to it. Newbies, whether you are a first semester fashion design student or a self-learner, often get intimidated by these technicalities. If you are first semester Fashion student, you wouldn’t have much choice, however others conveniently resort to their friendly neighborhood tailors for their sewing needs.</div>
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But honestly dress making is a simple process as long as we keep the end result in perspective.</div>
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To make things simple I would like to divide the whole process of dress making in four parts —</div>
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Your ability to imagine an outfit on completion, in it’s full glory. And thereon your ability to work backwards and translate that three dimensional visual onto a two dimensional paper or fabric. This transition from concept to product gets better with every well executed project.</div>
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I started making my clothes early on in life. It was more an act of survival. Being a middle child with an elder sister and a younger brother most of my clothes were hand me down. Now that I have two daughters, I understand the joy and pride the younger one feels in owing her sisters clothes. I felt the same joy when I received my sisters’ clothes. The only problem here was they were over sized, and I literally swam in them. So, I would say my experience with clothes had more to do with alterations than making them from the scratch. I would put on those over sized clothes on my petite body and start putting the safety pins around the waist to create the darts, pull in the shoulders to settle the cloth on it and even fold up the hem to reduce the length to match my height. My motivation was simple – I was getting something new to wear. It’s not that I did not have my share of new clothes, but I understood early in life that for a girl there’s never too many dresses. Hence the moment my sister got her new dresses I would start imagining them on me, if I did not like the design or the style I would imagine how I could rip open the seams and redesign it to my liking. That imagination is the key.</div>
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Before you even start taking the measurements for yourself or for someone you want to sew you have to imagine and visualize that garment on the body. For which its also important to understand the body, its shape and curves. Body is the platform where your dress will develop. Your measurement will help you understand the body but your visual will make you understand how the design will drape and fall on that surface. Of course it would help if you belong to the same gender as the clothes you plan to make. for example women would find it easier to visualize women clothing than men but with time and after taking many measurements one starts to understand the body well.</div>
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Another important aspect to visualization is the communication of that visual. Its not just enough to be able to see the design in your mind, unless you are the one who is sewing that design one should be able to translate that design visual first on the paper and then on the fabric. </div>
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I firmly believe pattern drafting is the back bone of dress making and a good pattern leads to good fabric cutting. Sewing is just a matter of attaching pieces of fabric together that can be mastered by consistent practice. With the accurate body measurements and the instructions you can achieve the basic fit and design and with time can incorporate more creative and innovative patterns in your dress making.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1655677964870774745.post-48340115018337406882019-01-15T17:29:00.000-08:002019-06-03T21:27:46.972-07:00 I am a Dress Designer not God <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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As a part of my job, I come across many kinds of customers. If I were to categorize them, I would put all of them into two categories. The first type would be those who completely trust me as a designer and give me the creative freedom to design and sew their outfits. Their design brief includes a few things like the occasion where the dress will be worn, color preferences and whether the occasion demands any theme or specific color to be followed. These days, almost everything has a theme, be it baby showers, birthday parties or weddings. But I must confess, I have not yet come across a funeral with a theme. Thankfully, these have not become a trend yet, and hopefully, will never become one.</div>
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The second type would be the ones who trust their own design instinct and abilities more than anyone else. They often come with an air brushed picture of the design worn by a 5 ft 8 inch tall model, and they want me to sew “that” design “exactly” as it appears in the picture. While that may sound like a perfectly reasonable ask, it does sound like a stretch when they demand that the dress should make them look exactly like the 5 ft 8 inch tall model!</div>
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For asks like this, I humbly present my point of view. A couple of issues with these type of requests:</div>
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Firstly, the physical characteristics of the model in question could possibly be different from the client. Height, complexion and body measurements of the model, who looks fabulous in that dress is also likely to be different. Every design needs to be seen in context. What looks good on one body type need not necessarily look good on another. I do not subscribe to the concept of mass producing some designs for people of different physical characteristics to buy, just because it looks good on a fashion model. A classic example of this would be “Anarkalis” (a long, frock-styled Indian outfit that is usually paired with a slim fitted bottom). How I have prayed for this fad to pass and common sense become more common. There was a point of time when I wanted to put a banner in front of my shop saying – “If you want to get an Anarkali stitched, the seamstress is on vacation.”</div>
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Secondly, even if I succeed in convincing the customer about the design of the dress and offer to change the design to suit their body type, in some semi stitched or precut garments there isn't much scope for modifying the dress. The design is already predetermined.</div>
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My point here is that whether you tailor makes your outfit or you buy off the rack not every design should or can be worn by everyone. Just because it's in vogue doesn't mean everyone should have it. When we are young and exploring our style by experimenting with different type of garments, if some days our style doesn't hit the key it's still understandable but after a certain age one should know what looks good on them and there is no excuse to look disastrous.</div>
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My view is that it is always ok to stick to classics and minimalistic designs that can't go wrong, irrespective of who wears them. But if you want to look fashionable then it is advisable that you know which fashion and style works for you. The other option of course is to let your designer do their job. While designing a dress, one should keep the body type, complexion and height in context before deciding on the design. That's where the visualization plays an important role. Spending some time visualising yourself wearing a dress may help you make the right decision.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1655677964870774745.post-60885701327919306922018-08-29T23:38:00.001-07:002018-08-30T01:25:31.528-07:00How to draw fashion figures - Faces <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext", serif; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">Fashion drawing unlike any other ‘realistic fine art genre’ is
quite achievable as it does not demand to be very detail oriented. As long as
you get your proportions right (which I will talk about in another blog soon) you
can pretty much qualify as a fashion illustrator. Firstly one needs to
understand the basic idea behind making fashion drawings. Primarily fashion
drawings are done to depict your design ideas on paper so that before you actually
make an effort to sew them you can have a fair enough idea how they are going
to look. Hence the emphasis is more on the Garments fall, draping, the fabric used
and the details rather than the details of the fashion figure itself. It’s
not meant to be very realistic in terms of the body details but as far as
garment goes you can be as realistic as you want to be. I have also seen illustrations
that have real pieces of fabric.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">One of
the most challenging part of a figure drawing however is the face. You can
still get away with body not being perfect or looking a bit disproportionate but faces have expressions, they need to look balanced and human (and not aliens!) </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: "sfuitext" , serif;">Having said that faces too need not be very detailed, for
example you can get away with not drawing eyes or facial features all together
but do get the positions and poses of the face right. It should be in sync with
the body pose. You cannot have head looking backward when body is facing front
(unless you are working on Gothic collection!) </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , serif; word-spacing: 0px;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">In order to achieve accurate and appropriate position of the head
and face the best technique that I followed when and I initially started
drawing fashion figures was by keeping a medium size ball with lines drawn as
half and quarter circle. Though human face isn’t perfectly round, it’s more
like an oval shape but that elongation could be added later on. Once you master
making these round shapes you could easily fill in the lower jaw part. </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBELMB2J6Gb_xmlwLRSAqp9P1bf_Puy-SaI2aG-jQicT22VtDzeDrpVlPC8mirVHw3x92iL6GcPl_VinxM58ZgWh7GRW_UGMq_RPLPTBO6pBboHKQ3mBstY9HDqhppKBwcd4Dus5u4Hy58/s1600/IMG_6016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBELMB2J6Gb_xmlwLRSAqp9P1bf_Puy-SaI2aG-jQicT22VtDzeDrpVlPC8mirVHw3x92iL6GcPl_VinxM58ZgWh7GRW_UGMq_RPLPTBO6pBboHKQ3mBstY9HDqhppKBwcd4Dus5u4Hy58/s320/IMG_6016.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here are some of the potential shapes that you can make. Try to figure out as many positions by turning the ball. </td></tr>
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Once you are confident making these round circles with the lines
starts adding the lower part of the face, which would be slightly longer, turning
this round shape into an oval one. Try to keep eye level line, nose line,
lip line and chine line parallel to each other. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">Let’s try few poses - </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ku5LSspPp-qeXbwtFHU2usjeLUVirE-t72CuQJUNp4_dxFzur78rzS1Qdg2ovSFrfPr5vaFYIqD0cYDvMUwTxMVl6kFKVFoyM1lkLdSLHnb-wkc-o-mm_8anD-kpRXZijALwQsHfayMi/s1600/IMG_6012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1234" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ku5LSspPp-qeXbwtFHU2usjeLUVirE-t72CuQJUNp4_dxFzur78rzS1Qdg2ovSFrfPr5vaFYIqD0cYDvMUwTxMVl6kFKVFoyM1lkLdSLHnb-wkc-o-mm_8anD-kpRXZijALwQsHfayMi/s400/IMG_6012.jpg" width="307" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; min-height: 20.3px; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Once you are happy with the shapes, one of the best way to
practice them and get a hang of them is by highlighting them with a black
marker pen and tracing these figures as many times as possible. Very soon you
will be drawing them without any difficulty. </span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; min-height: 20.3px; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">Like any other art form these too require a lot of patience and
practice so do keep a note pad handy and soon you will get a hang of it. </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "sfuitext" , serif; font-size: large;">All the best !</span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "sfuitext" , serif;"><a href="http://www.dsewclub.com/">Kalpana Singh</a></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; min-height: 20.3px; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1655677964870774745.post-56605886713387477872018-08-26T22:34:00.000-07:002019-09-15T17:10:31.284-07:00Tailoring Baju Kurung, Cheongsam and Sari Blouse <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDECEI2qivHoV5fNz6fPOvyO3pMMB4E1p8bElllQekTKw-n5gGDyCT1JZxStzvCgj8DVMpj2Pqe0cTS8d4viniBFN6zbs8uARflP26K1knDeaujYnfhYP3VWtrwGGqPTa2OQM4qXSt40ST/s1600/Indian+Wear+course+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1104" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDECEI2qivHoV5fNz6fPOvyO3pMMB4E1p8bElllQekTKw-n5gGDyCT1JZxStzvCgj8DVMpj2Pqe0cTS8d4viniBFN6zbs8uARflP26K1knDeaujYnfhYP3VWtrwGGqPTa2OQM4qXSt40ST/s400/Indian+Wear+course+1.jpg" width="275" /></a></div>
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<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">When I started sewing at the age of 11, without my even realizing
I was actually using the draping method to sew my own clothes. For those who
are new to pattern drafting terms, Fashion draping is an important part of
fashion design. Draping for fashion design is the process of positioning and
pinning fabric on a dress form (in my case it was my own body using safety pins)
to develop the structure of a garment design. After draping, the fabric is
removed from the dress form and used to create the sewing pattern for the
garment. </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">Until I joined a proper fashion degree college I was quite happy
and pleased by the results and had actually started considering myself a self –taught-
genius- fashion designer! To my surprise and dismay all my beliefs were shaken
to the core when I was introduced to the world of systematic and calculative
pattern drafting. That’s when I realized that pattern drafting of any product
is no joke. It’s a combination of science, math and loads of logics. I soon was
humbled enough to adapt this new method and since then I have never taken my
patterns lightly no matter how simple the design was. </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">Now that I’m a professional dressmaker and a teacher more often
than less I am confronted with this question - “how do Tailors make clothes
with only few measurements and why does a particular tradition garment (sari blouse,
cheongsam, Baju kurungs etc) are cut directly on fabric without having to make
patterns!?”</span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; min-height: 20.3px; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">To my understanding a dress maker should be able to make any
design irrespective of their cultural background or expertise in a garment
belonging to that particular culture. I believe the basics and fundamentals should
and will remain the same no matter what. Your method can be different from mine
but as long as it gives the same end result it shouldn’t matter. </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">To answer this question I selected a sari blouse design and cut
the pattern using my professional dress making basics the end result was
fantastic but it took me twice as time as any local Tailor would take. So
here’s my answer - yes it’s a fact that local Tailors take way too less
measurements and often don’t <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>require to
draft their patterns on paper before cutting the fabric but it is also a fact
that besides their own traditional garments seldom they can sew any other
designs. Try giving your local sari blouse or Punjabi suit tailor a western
evening gown or boot cut pants! You’ll know what I mean. No offense to them
they are by all means very skilled individuals with years of precious
experience but the fact remains the same - their method of learning and
practice is restricted to a particular design and is often learnt from a senior
master tailor who passes on their own short cuts that they figured out during
their own sewing journeys. These methods and tricks are learnt and absorbed
without asking the “whys” behind them and hence although they give great
results they often fail to display creativity and innovation in designs. </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background: white; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; orphans: 2; text-align: justify; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sfuitext" , serif;">As a dress maker you yourself will develop many tricks and short
cuts of your own but when you teach someone your skill make sure you hand them
down the full extensive methods and let them make their own mistakes and find
their own tricks :) </span><span style="color: #454545; font-family: ".sf ui text" , "serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<o:p><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Happy Sewing !</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1655677964870774745.post-43331274502375714222016-05-06T23:14:00.001-07:002018-08-26T22:55:39.423-07:00Seam Allowance - why not !<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255 , 255 , 255 , 0); color: rgb(69 , 69 , 69); font-family: "uictfonttextstylebody"; font-weight: normal;"><b></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255 , 255 , 255 , 0); color: rgb(69 , 69 , 69); font-family: "uictfonttextstylebody"; font-weight: normal;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255 , 255 , 255 , 0); color: rgb(69 , 69 , 69); font-family: "uictfonttextstylebody"; font-weight: normal;"><b>Seam allowance </b> (sometimes called inlays) as Wikipedia defines it is the area between the edge and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together. <b>Seam allowances</b> can range from <sup>1</sup>⁄<sub>4</sub>inch (6.4 mm) wide to as much as several inches.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #454545; font-family: "uictfonttextstylebody";"><span style="text-decoration: -webkit-letterpress;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7Uchd5wSAmXOsxD2Su7IPr7ON8bSZ03-lI4qMAv6rpGarHzAEQY8P6Mewap3LaoADXJpI5SZPNzqMitmZh-udh202TZFqZpUKujh4SFe3hZNk0DLUrvQ9OHtVANlcuXCJXTwqSXAUonn/s640/blogger-image--2023898471.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7Uchd5wSAmXOsxD2Su7IPr7ON8bSZ03-lI4qMAv6rpGarHzAEQY8P6Mewap3LaoADXJpI5SZPNzqMitmZh-udh202TZFqZpUKujh4SFe3hZNk0DLUrvQ9OHtVANlcuXCJXTwqSXAUonn/s640/blogger-image--2023898471.jpg" /></a></span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255 , 255 , 255 , 0); font-size: large;">Now it is but obvious that creating a seam allowance is a bit of a lengthy work especially when you are trying to create a uniform seam allowance i.e. Making extra effort by measuring the seam and marking accurately. We do sometime get tempted to skip this step and directly go ahead with cutting the fabric by assuming the allowance ( I myself have been guilty of doing the same! ) But if you can actually do an eye measurement and gauge the allowance just by assuming ( which obviously mean you have been sewing for quite some time and can tell the measurement by just merely looking at it ) I would say go ahead and cut the damn fabric!! But if by any chance you are a beginner , which means either this is your first garment or you have sewn 2-3 garments already then please do take the pains of measuring the seam allowance , mark accurately and then only cut the fabric. Here is the reason why - as a beginner your sewing on the machine becomes much easier if you have your lines drawn clearly on your fabric. But as you get experience you might not spend so much time and effort drawing your lines on each and every piece of the fabric cut hence your straight stitches can only be ensured if you align your edge of the fabric to the lines marked next to the machine foot. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEH9SdWv_AeAFZxlxHTJLjGWRdTnvkeqAW4i3q7AGG0HH73aGSvvV3K-C5DwG9cml5FMYxQLOsX3k5xXCiTJPqmpxmZtpnaqSht2EJlVzjMxAz38xr3EXmnJjXx2VEo5TN8dE83Asgl3z6/s640/blogger-image--243831667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEH9SdWv_AeAFZxlxHTJLjGWRdTnvkeqAW4i3q7AGG0HH73aGSvvV3K-C5DwG9cml5FMYxQLOsX3k5xXCiTJPqmpxmZtpnaqSht2EJlVzjMxAz38xr3EXmnJjXx2VEo5TN8dE83Asgl3z6/s640/blogger-image--243831667.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); font-size: large;">If the seam allowance itself is not uniform your sewing on the machine too will not be straight. The logic I often give for spending a little extra time and effort on uniform seam allowance is - "the amount of time spent on removing your stitches is much more than the amount of time spent on marking uniform seam allowance !!" Hence do mark the seam accurately and equally.</span></div>
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<div style="color: rgb(69 , 69 , 69); font-family: "uictfonttextstylebody"; font-weight: normal;">
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;">Happy sewing !</span></div>
</div>
</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1655677964870774745.post-43599684982098013752013-08-02T01:43:00.003-07:002018-04-01T23:03:07.762-07:00Hemming<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkFhhcEQq0uOAeQ5Gq1d6ypPPdksZuNplXHUbdknpkNVqDHYzrMmp9fHUswujhM22NVKRHerrP6BHMLsUBEDB-_-vG4akE7gY1jxNGrZH1tueFMvlhVc2ZiU6pQ9uziXmr2_B0XxOjYYfe/s1600/stitch-1_lg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkFhhcEQq0uOAeQ5Gq1d6ypPPdksZuNplXHUbdknpkNVqDHYzrMmp9fHUswujhM22NVKRHerrP6BHMLsUBEDB-_-vG4akE7gY1jxNGrZH1tueFMvlhVc2ZiU6pQ9uziXmr2_B0XxOjYYfe/s1600/stitch-1_lg.jpg" /></span></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"> A hem in sewing is a garment finishing
method, where the edge of a piece of cloth is folded narrowly and sewn to
prevent unraveling of the fabric.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">During my teaching sessions I often see students (beginner level) struggling to
keep the hem folded while they can sew it and for obvious reasons they do get stressed.
So here are few tips and techniques that can help you hem comfortably making
the whole process enjoyable and relaxing.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">1. Pinning: fold the edges using the pins and then hem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">2. Tacking: fold the edges and do a long distant running stitch on it with a
single thread. Once you are done with the hem simply remove the running stitch
by pulling the end thread!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">3. Ironing: you can fold the edges and iron on it. But this technique is more useful
if you are dealing with a cotton fabric.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">4. Fabric glue: there are lots of brands in the market like Sewing box, Quick sew
etc. that would easily hem folded while you sew them.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">Here is a simple recipe to make fabric glue right in your
kitchen. All u need is some white flour and warm water. Just mix 1/2 teaspoon
of flour in 4 tea spoon of warm or hot water. Mix it nicely and thoroughly to avoid
any lumps . Once the paste is smooth apply it on the edges with a thin brush
and press fold the hem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">Hope you found the information useful!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">Happy sewing!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: large;">Kalpana Singh </span></div>
</div>
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