When I started sewing at the age of 11, without my even realizing
I was actually using the draping method to sew my own clothes. For those who
are new to pattern drafting terms, Fashion draping is an important part of
fashion design. Draping for fashion design is the process of positioning and
pinning fabric on a dress form (in my case it was my own body using safety pins)
to develop the structure of a garment design. After draping, the fabric is
removed from the dress form and used to create the sewing pattern for the
garment.
Until I joined a proper fashion degree college I was quite happy
and pleased by the results and had actually started considering myself a self –taught-
genius- fashion designer! To my surprise and dismay all my beliefs were shaken
to the core when I was introduced to the world of systematic and calculative
pattern drafting. That’s when I realized that pattern drafting of any product
is no joke. It’s a combination of science, math and loads of logics. I soon was
humbled enough to adapt this new method and since then I have never taken my
patterns lightly no matter how simple the design was.
Now that I’m a professional dressmaker and a teacher more often
than less I am confronted with this question - “how do Tailors make clothes
with only few measurements and why does a particular tradition garment (sari blouse,
cheongsam, Baju kurungs etc) are cut directly on fabric without having to make
patterns!?”
To my understanding a dress maker should be able to make any
design irrespective of their cultural background or expertise in a garment
belonging to that particular culture. I believe the basics and fundamentals should
and will remain the same no matter what. Your method can be different from mine
but as long as it gives the same end result it shouldn’t matter.
To answer this question I selected a sari blouse design and cut
the pattern using my professional dress making basics the end result was
fantastic but it took me twice as time as any local Tailor would take. So
here’s my answer - yes it’s a fact that local Tailors take way too less
measurements and often don’t require to
draft their patterns on paper before cutting the fabric but it is also a fact
that besides their own traditional garments seldom they can sew any other
designs. Try giving your local sari blouse or Punjabi suit tailor a western
evening gown or boot cut pants! You’ll know what I mean. No offense to them
they are by all means very skilled individuals with years of precious
experience but the fact remains the same - their method of learning and
practice is restricted to a particular design and is often learnt from a senior
master tailor who passes on their own short cuts that they figured out during
their own sewing journeys. These methods and tricks are learnt and absorbed
without asking the “whys” behind them and hence although they give great
results they often fail to display creativity and innovation in designs.
As a dress maker you yourself will develop many tricks and short
cuts of your own but when you teach someone your skill make sure you hand them
down the full extensive methods and let them make their own mistakes and find
their own tricks :)
Happy Sewing !
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Got any question regarding pattern drafting ? or need a blog on how to draft a particular design ? Just drop me a message in the comment section and ill try my best to suffice :)
Have a happy sewing time!